Almaty, Kazakhstan: The Apple City at the Foot of the Tien Shan

Almaty means “Father of Apples”.

The city was once Kazakhstan’s capital (moved to Astana in 1997) but remains the country’s largest and most vibrant place. Almaty sits at the foot of the Tien Shan mountains, 700-1000 meters above sea level, with year-round snow visible on the peaks above.

The City

Almaty is one of the better-planned Soviet cities. Wide tree-lined avenues, tidy squares, plus the domes of Central Asian mosques give it a “Central Asian Kyiv” feel.

In the center, Independence Square has the Zher Ana monument to the Kazakh motherland. Drive east to Kok-Tobe hill for a city overlook. Drive 30 minutes south and you’re at the snow line.

The Tien Shan

The most recommended trip is Big Almaty Lake, around 2500 meters up. The water glows almost luminous turquoise, ringed by snow mountains. From the city it’s 1-1.5 hours’ drive; the road is rough but the view is worth it.

At the mountain’s foot you’ll also find Shymbulak (a ski resort) and hot springs. In winter this is one of Central Asia’s best skiing destinations.

In Almaty

Worth experiencing:

• Green Bazaar — Central Asia’s best dried fruits and honey
• The Central State Museum — covers Kazakh history from nomadic empire to modern state
• Tien Shan hiking — even without summiting, the views at the base are spectacular

Almaty is the most un-exotic exotic city in Central Asia — it has both Soviet bones and Kazakh steppe character. If you can only visit one city in Central Asia, this is the best starting point.